home / technical

Hold design and Carving

When it comes to designing each hold the approach is non-random. Each hold with in a set has been carefully thought out before it is carved. This ensures the best possible variety in terms of left or right handedness, positivity, number of fingers used and the size of the hold. It also means you are receiving holds that compliment all of the others within the series and gives you as much variety as possible.
Each hold has been carved by hand and the level of detail that he reaches is almost microscopic. Using only simple tools, time is spent perfecting the aesthetic and ergonomic features of each hold as well as ensuring each hold offers a unique and wide variety of positions for the route setter.

Technical

Hollow-back holds

All large holds within the series, such as Gritstone XXXL and Slopers come "reduced" or with a "hollow-back" The materials used with these holds differs to our usual mix being both stronger and lighter making them a lot easier to set with.
These holds have been designed to be used mainly with the screw fixing holes and should NOT be used solely with the bolt hole. The bolt-hole should only be used as guide to rotate and position the hold into place.

Colour

All of our colours are specified to the RAL colour system. The colours will be consistent within each order and from order to order. The UV stability of our standard colours is of the highest possible e.g. Red, Yellow, Orange, Blue, Black, White and are recommended for outdoor use. Fluorescent pigments have a Low UV stability and are therefore NOT recommended for use outdoors.

Care and cleaning

Cleaning: When cleaning your holds it is recommend that only a high-pressure washer is used. Cleaning holds with any detergents will vastly speed up deterioration of the surface colour.
Care: When resetting routes it is important to take care not to drop the holds, Whilst every effort is made to ensure this type of treatment can be handled by the hold, repeated impacts will increase the chance of the holds fracturing whilst being affixed to an ACS. Any chips that result can be sharp and should be sanded/linished to remove these edges.

Fixing

Dual-Fixings: Cap-head (8mm-H) and Countersunk (6mm-H) fixings can be used with all holds (except screw-on holds).

Fixing

Recommended Torque Settings (resistance to rotation)

The recommended torque settings have been calculated for a hold affixed to a typical flat climbing structure. The values quoted should be enough to stop a hold from spinning, when the maximum moment is applied by the climber.

The values quoted are show as a recommended guide only. As there are many factors that govern the forces holding a hold to a wall and whether it will spin or not during use e.g. Friction Coefficients, hold-base, wall surface and texture.

Hold Size Torque Max
Small 20Nm
Medium 25Nm
Large 30Nm
X-Large 35Nm
Reduced Holds* 20Nm


Maximum Torque settings

Whilst the material has been designed to handle a significant load pressure when affixed to an uneven surface, the likelihood of fracture is increased due to increased stresses. For this reason, and because the large number of variables that effect how and when a hold breaks it is impossible to quote a valid maximum torque setting for any hold.